The devil is in the details. Or is it the genius? No matter. We’ll figure it all out together, but in the meantime, here are some design considerations to mull over. Trust me. These are the finer points that will make your handbuilt, custom Georgena Terry bike feel like heaven. To help inspire your thinking, take a look at some recent bikes I’ve designed. Yep, there’s a lot of variety here, and that’s the point. Every rider and every bike is different!
LET’S TALK RIDE
The first consideration is how you plan on using your Georgena Terry bike. Here are some thoughts to get you started:
Maybe you want to ride with friends on paved roads, bike paths, or dirt roads. What’s the terrain like? Flat, hilly, mountainous? A little of some and a lot of another?
How about supported bike tours — riding your bike from place to place while someone else schleps the gear. (Sorry, not sorry.)
Or maybe you want to load up and ride self-supported on that epic bike packing trip you’ve always dreamed of. I’ve helped outfit riders for the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route as well as cross country tours.
Gravel bikes are the rage now. Yeah, they can take you down that gravel road you always wanted to explore, but didn’t because your tires were too skinny. But gravel bikes also ride well on paved roads. They are truly versatile machines and because of that, they may be the last bike you’ll ever need.
All of this is to say you can have your cake and eat it, too. As a designer, I don’t dictate your choices. I help you nurture them into the bike that meets your goals and then some! Together, we’ll measure many times before the first steel tube is mitered. We’ll learn from each other.
PROFESSIONAL BIKE FIT
The bike has to fit properly so you can ride efficiently and comfortably. When you buy a custom bike from me, I include a professional fit before I crank up my CAD program and before any tubing is cut. If the bike doesn’t fit you properly, slick components and a gorgeous paint scheme won’t make you a better rider. I’m excellent at understanding the mechanical aspects of the bicycle, but I rely on top notch fitters to guide me in choosing the proper geometry for you. I work with some of the best in the business. And when you take delivery of the bike, your fit will be checked again to make sure everything is perfect. Together we will create your dream bicycle.
SHIFTING GEARS AND BRAKING
What kind of gearing are you considering? Think about the gearing you have now. Is it adequate? Do you wish you had gears that would make hill climbing easier? On the flip side, do you run out of gears when you go downhill? Once I know more about you, I’ll prepare a gear chart for you so you can compare the gears you use now with the gears I recommend. A picture is worth a thousand words.
Speaking of gearing, are you considering electronic shifting? No more awkwardly swiping a shift lever. Electronic shifting requires very little hand pressure for quick and accurate gear changes. And optional remote shift buttons on the handlebar let you shift from multiple hand positions. It’s not for everyone, but now’s the time to consider all the options.
How about brakes? Rim brakes apply their force at the rim of the bicycle wheel. Disc brakes apply force to a rotor attached to the wheel hub. Disc brakes are the standard and it’s no surprise. They perform really well in wet weather or on gnarly downhills. Disc brakes require very little hand strength to operate compared to caliper brakes. And wider tires are much easier to fit on a bike with disc brakes. Versatility!
I use Shimano and SRAM components. My wheels are built by Velocity. Other components come from René Herse, Schwalbe, Whisky, Thomson, and Velo Orange, to name a few. Many other component options are available, like S&S couplers, or an internally geared hub. If you don’t see it, ask! After many years of experience building bikes, I’ve found components made by certain companies are beautifully designed and mechanically proficient. These are the same ones I use on my own bikes…and I’m very particular about form and function.
FRAME DESIGN AND GEOMETRY
You might’ve hated geometry in high school. Not me! I live for that stuff. Because frame design and geometry can make all the difference between a “meh” fit and one that makes the bike feel as if it’s a perfect extension of your body. Bike frame geometry is based on all kinds of factors, such as standover, seat and top tube angles, rake, and drop, to name just a few. But since each person is as bespoke as each one of my bikes, your bike’s geometry may be quite different from someone else’s. No need to worry about it because this is where the super-bike-geek in me really shines! For those of you are genuinely curious about the process here are some videos to show you how it works.
COLOR
Decisions, decisions, decisions. This might be the toughest—and most fun—one you’ll face. What color bike do you want? To make it even more fun–or tortuous–depending on your POV, you can choose from a collection of stock colors. Feel free to mix and match—your bike can be one color or multiple colors. Still don’t see what you like? No problem: I can send you a book with hundreds of color choices. If you’re feeling overwhelmed, check out some nifty color inspiration here. Are we having fun yet?
Our stock flat colors:
Our metallic colors ($75 upcharge):
FRAME DESIGN
Don’t worry; you don’t need to know all of this—that’s my job. But I’ve found quite a few of you are genuinely curious about the process. So here are some videos to help you see how it works.
PRICING
The following prices include a professional fitting before and after the bike is built, professional assembly at the local bike shop of your choice, and all shipping charges (in the continental U.S.). Prices start at $5000 depending on the components and frame construction. Caliper brake bikes typically cost $5000; disc brake bikes with mechanical shifting are $5800; and disc brake bikes with electronic shifting are $6500. Sales tax applies to bikes shipped to a New York State address.
GT@georgenaterry.com 949-994-8970